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boilermate 2000 sensor replacement

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Post  Craigyk76 Sun Feb 01, 2015 1:35 pm

Hi I may need to replace the dry sensor on my boilermate 2000, anyone know how to replace it do I just pull it out ?

Does anyone know what sort of time I should be looking at when the store is heating mine looks to take anything from about 58 seconds to 1 and a half minutes to rise a degree does this sound right ?

Thanks in advance

Craigyk76

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Post  mike Mon Feb 02, 2015 7:54 am

Yes it is about right.
1.5 minutes is the tops.
But your trouble will not be the sensor unless it is faulty ref ACB codes.
But the boiler and or flow & return pipes are most likely sludged.
Mike

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Post  Craigyk76 Mon Feb 02, 2015 3:00 pm

Thanks Mike the issue I'm having is the boilermate gets to 77 deg then when the heating comes on it starts to drop after about 3 minutes then it starts dropping quicker until it goes below 60 and it switches off so the heating takes an age to heat the house, what I think is happening is the cold water from the conservatory radiators reaches the store and cools it down, this issue only showed it self after the boilerpump failed and wouldn't start so I notivred the heating not coming on.the pipes above the boiler are hot is there anyway to check for sludge in the pipes without dtainig the system ?

Thanks

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Post  mike Mon Feb 02, 2015 3:13 pm

No not really, draining will tell you a lot.
What about inside the F& E tank? What's in the bottom?
Is the boiler pump working now?
Mike

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Post  Craigyk76 Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:11 pm

The boiler pump is new and working fine now I haven't looked in the f&e for a while as its in the loft due to conversion but I do seem to remember the sides being covered in slime, the system has been drained down twice recently once for the pump replacement and just before Christmas when we had a leak from a heating pipe, do you think it would be worth trying some cleaner in the system then drain and refill ?

Craigyk76

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Post  mike Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:20 pm

Loft conversion.
Conservatory
All added on since the house was built?
New pump is?
You need to make sure your gas boiler is on high output.
Boilers used to have 3 settings.
Low, medium and high. They were set on medium.
You need to make sure your is giving max output.
Is hot water ok?
What size is the Bm 2000?
Mike

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Post  Craigyk76 Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:33 pm

They were both added later but at different times loft was finished Christmas 2013 it all worked well for a year until the pump failed. I have tried switching off the extra radiators to see if that helped but it still dropped below 60 when heating first comes on once its been on for a while and all radiators are hot it will stay on but boilermate never goes over 63 usually sits at 60. Boiler is on high mine has 6 settings its an ideal classic slimline se9ff.
Hot water works excellent very hot
The boilermate is an abc2029 115l.

The pump that was fitted is this one my brother lives over the road and he had his replaced with this and it works fine on his.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-central-heating-pump-a-rated-230v/77771

Thanks

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Post  mike Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:10 pm

Boiler mate 2000 is what size as in litres. 125 was the smallest 225 the biggest.
Pump you have fitted is ok. BUT you can not beat a Grundfos pump 15 / 50 was what you had fitted I would think.
How are you using the new pump?
On what settings?
Could it be said then that all worked well with the old pump until it broke, but not with the new one?
If you are happy with your new pump and you are sure of using the correct setting.
Then you must have blocked / restricted flow & return from the boiler to the unit.
But again I will mention get the boiler checked / range rated to ensure on max, more so with the additions made and the extra work now winter is here.
Colder water entering the house hence more heat being used to heat the DHW.
And the heating too.
If you read the BM 2000 manual it will mention about the boiler / max setting.
But as mentioned many are installed / delivered set at mid range.
If your BM 2000 is a 125 then you are going to struggle ref the extra rads etc.
More so in winter with conservatory rads but that is another debate in it's self.
Your boiler output is only 30 KW
It is Band D for efficiency
So with things as they are you are going to struggle.
But I have my doubts about the new pump.
Mike

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Post  Craigyk76 Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:51 am

Hi Mike it is 125 sorry
Yes I did have that pump fitted before it failed.
I do agree that the heating worked fine with the old pump before it failed.
I have the new pump on constant 3 not the variable setting.
I agree with what your saying with the additions to the system stopping the heat reaching everywhere before the boilermate cools down, but I would have thought that if I isolate the new radiators from the flow then I wouldn't expect to have as much of a drop in the store tempurature.
I have tested the heating pump by connecting ti straight to the thermostat switched live in case it was a sensor giving a false reading and shutting the heating off but this only made the store temo drop to 52.

I am starting to think that I should have asked for the same pump as a replacement but we needed it straight away as we had no heating.

The pump has a 5m delivery head but my boiler is about 6.5 metres away from the boilermate downstairs do you think this could casue the issue ?
Do you know what the distance is on the grundfos pump.

Thanks in advance Mike I appreciate the time you have spent replying to my questions.

Craig

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Post  mike Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:12 am

It might be worth putting a Grundfos 15/60 pump on.
But would check that boiler is on it's highest range.
It would also be useful to put cleaner in too.
Even if you change the boiler / unit the system has to be clean. So not wasted.
I have posted on here today an answer which covers cleaning a Boilermate 2000.
Mike

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Post  Craigyk76 Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:24 pm

Hi Mike plot thickens after running a bath tonight noticed the dhw pump was still running loud buzzing from acb checked voltage at pump and it was 240 strange thing was hot water was still hot at the tap but the bottom of the phe and pump and pipework around the pump were cold after switching the boilermate off at the wall and back on the pump stopped, and everything started to get hot again. think it may be time for a new system this one looks to be very poorly.

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