A-Class Element replacement
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A-Class Element replacement
One of my elements is leaking. I ordered up the parts and a very competent friend who is a plumber came to fit.
Despite plenty of WD40 and a lot of force he was unable to remove either element - I was going to replace both.
We reached the conclusion that to proceed would risk damaging the cylinder.
Is this a common problem please as I can't see anything about it online?
Thank you
Despite plenty of WD40 and a lot of force he was unable to remove either element - I was going to replace both.
We reached the conclusion that to proceed would risk damaging the cylinder.
Is this a common problem please as I can't see anything about it online?
Thank you
MatthewM- Posts : 9
Join date : 2012-03-26
Re: A-Class Element replacement
Has anyone got any ideas please? Thank you
MatthewM- Posts : 9
Join date : 2012-03-26
Removing a stubborn immersion
Video that might help, its about shock rather than brute force:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqYCrTQo83Y
Spanner: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monument-361t-Immersion-Heater-Spanner/dp/B0001P0FXG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=monument+immersion+3611&qid=1587889269&sr=8-1
Let us know how it goes. Regards Murray
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqYCrTQo83Y
Spanner: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monument-361t-Immersion-Heater-Spanner/dp/B0001P0FXG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=monument+immersion+3611&qid=1587889269&sr=8-1
Let us know how it goes. Regards Murray
Box 'spanner'
I can't speak for other engineers, but replacement has never been a problem for me. I always use the same method - and I've been doing it for over 40 years!...
Loosen it while it's still full of water - reduces the chance of twisting (copper cylinders), but not that much.
Use an 'immersion heater box spanner' (fits all sides of the nut) with a bar
Strike the bar with a hammer.
That's it! I have heard that some use a blowlamp, but I can't help thinking that would make it worse as it would expand. My public liability insurance forbids any use of a blowlamp.
Only once did I have a copper cylinder go when trying to loosen it (while still full), and wouldn't you know it...it was my own house! And it was at 6.00 in the evening, and I remember being not very pleased. Mrs Foster wasn't impressed with my plumbing skills, nor my language. When you put the new immersion heater in, coat the thread and the washer with Vaseline. It will come out next time with merely a slight push on the tool. So many 'engineers' coat the washer in Boss White or similar when it simply isn't required. On thermal stores, they aren't under any great pressure - most of them just a few metres head of pressure, if that! Why some plumbers feel the need to seal them in as though they are constructing a space shuttle is a mystery to me.
Loosen it while it's still full of water - reduces the chance of twisting (copper cylinders), but not that much.
Use an 'immersion heater box spanner' (fits all sides of the nut) with a bar
Strike the bar with a hammer.
That's it! I have heard that some use a blowlamp, but I can't help thinking that would make it worse as it would expand. My public liability insurance forbids any use of a blowlamp.
Only once did I have a copper cylinder go when trying to loosen it (while still full), and wouldn't you know it...it was my own house! And it was at 6.00 in the evening, and I remember being not very pleased. Mrs Foster wasn't impressed with my plumbing skills, nor my language. When you put the new immersion heater in, coat the thread and the washer with Vaseline. It will come out next time with merely a slight push on the tool. So many 'engineers' coat the washer in Boss White or similar when it simply isn't required. On thermal stores, they aren't under any great pressure - most of them just a few metres head of pressure, if that! Why some plumbers feel the need to seal them in as though they are constructing a space shuttle is a mystery to me.
Barry Foster- Posts : 12
Join date : 2019-12-19
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