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Replacement Timer

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Replacement Timer Empty Replacement Timer

Post  iandom Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:08 pm

I have a digital timer with an LCD screen that has faded over time and is very hard to read when it is warm, which is obviously a normal situation. The timer is a Grasslin MIL 72 E/1 digi 20.

I had it replaced by a repair company and they put in a different timer because the old one is obsolete. The new timer is a Grasslin TACTIC 371.2. It works but it has less functionality.

In particular, whereas with the old timer it was possible to override the timer operation either permanently (off or on) or temporarily (so it reverts to automatic at the next timed event), the new one doesn't have the temporary advance function. So we only have a choice of automatic, fixed off and fixed on. For my family this is a significant loss of functionality. If I had been told in advance the functionality was different I might have looked for another solution first.

I contacted the installer to express my dissatisfaction. I was told I have the Gledhill recommended replacement (fair enough) and they weren't aware the functionality was less (which I think they should have done). To their credit, they have offered to refit the old timer and refund me.

I spoke to Grasslin technical support and they suggested an external timer, the Grasslin TOWERCHRON QE1 TIMESWITCH. Obviously, that would mean a blanking plate would be needed (or they suggested using the old timer for that) but the company who fitted the new timer are unwilling to fit the QE1 because Gledhill haven't tested it and they are concerned about it affecting the sensitive voltages on the PCB. Also fair enough I suppose - I probably look like a difficult customer already and they don't want to risk me being even more difficult if it all goes wrong.

Does anyone know if there is a real risk here? If it does go wrong, would I simply be looking at the cost of a new PCB and a new approved timer?

For the record, I appreciate that any advice I get here about the compatibility of non-standard timers is on a best efforts basis and if I follow it then that is entirely at my risk.

iandom

Posts : 5
Join date : 2011-10-19

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Replacement Timer Empty Re: Replacement Timer

Post  scorp Sun Oct 23, 2011 4:29 am

I looked at datasheet for both timers. Snapshots of wiring is on the picture, top is new installed(1), bottom is new which you want(2).
Replacement Timer Untitl11
If pin 3 of (1) timer on you system now connected to "LIVE"(L) then no problem. Here is connection:
(1)timer pin (2)timer pin for CH programing
1 N
2 L
3 1
4 2
5 4
In this case HV channel on (2) timer will be unused. Actually there is no problem if pin 3 of (1) timer is not connected to L. Just connect LIVE to L, NEUTRAL to N and the other three as above but make sure that pin 2 and 4 of (2) not connected on the PCB to LIVE.
Also I suspect that pin 5 of (1) not connected at all.

scorp

Posts : 77
Join date : 2010-07-07

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Replacement Timer Empty Re: Replacement Timer

Post  iandom Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:18 am

Update - I spoke to Grasslin about compatibility and they said that as long as the Boilermate does not draw more than 5 amps then it will be fine to use the QE1. They advised me to check with Gledhill to find out the Boilermate II specification since the original XB216 and the TACTIC 371.2 are rated for up to 16amps.

Incidentally, Grasslin technical support also told me that the reason for the original problem with a fading LCD screen is that using a clock mounted flush in the Boilermate II puts the LCD screen right on the edge of its operational temperature specification.

So I rang Gledhill who told me that the Boilermate II places very little current demand on the controller. Less than 3 amps. So the QE1 is within spec. However, Gledhill also suggested that I would be better off replacing the remote thermostat (which is in our hallway) with a combined thermostat / timer control.

Gledhill told me to do the following:

Remove the new clock. Directly connect terminal 1 (the incoming mains) to terminal 9 (the switch live out that goes to the room thermostat) - this is the hard wired equivalent of having the timer set into fixed on mode - having had a look I see that these are the terminals towards the bottom of the Boilermate II, not the wires going to the timer pins. Replace the room thermostat with the combined thermostat / timer control. Put the original clock back in place to act as a blanking plate.

I've ordered a Grasslin Feeling CH1 http://www.tfc-group.co.uk/_sa_webapp/runfeel.html?page=284 for the purpose - it is rated up to 6 amps and seems to offer all the functionality I could possibly want.

iandom

Posts : 5
Join date : 2011-10-19

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