Gledhill Repairs
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No heating

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Post  Mimatron Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:09 pm

I am not an engineer of any sort. The boiler is firing, set to max. Hot water is fine. Room themostat is set to 30 as hoping to give it a boost. All radiators are cold. Boiler fires up every now and again but doesn't stay on for long. Help! please.

Mimatron

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Post  scorp Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:04 pm

Have you switched on timer?

scorp

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Post  Mimatron Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:29 pm

Yes, even tried it on constant, no luck.

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Post  scorp Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:16 pm

I believe that you checked this topic but just in case not - "Boilermate 2000 + Potterton Suprima = No heating"

scorp

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Post  Mimatron Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:31 pm

Yes I did read it but didn't understand it!

Mimatron

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Post  scorp Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:53 pm

Then only one part can be interesting for you "It is essential that the boiler thermostat is turned up to maximum as the Boilermate 2000 won't let the central heating work unless it is hotter than 60deg C.".
For more help you probably need to be a bit DIY. Hope more experienced gurus will give here advices

scorp

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Post  Mimatron Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:09 am

How do i check the temperature? I have everything i can on full blast all radiators turned on too. Thanks for all your help Scorp.

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Post  Mimatron Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:50 pm

Another thing my 'switch' doesn't work either, still no heating. In the past we have called heating specialists in and they don't have a clue when they see the Gledhill unit.

Mimatron

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Post  scorp Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:22 pm

Do you mean "switch - emergency" doesn't work?

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Post  Mimatron Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:26 pm

Yes it doesn't work

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Post  scorp Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:01 pm

As I said I'm not professional in it(only know electronics) but if nobody answer then may i suggest that you need to open front panel of Boilermate and look at PCB. I think that when you turn everything for heating on then green LED for CH pump will light up. If it will but pump doesn't start then it may be either PCB or pump itself. LED position you can find in manual. Also you can check temperature which must be higher than 60C as mentioned in the post i provided. Also you may check signals on PCB to make sure that thermostat and timer really switch CH but I suspect if "switch-emergency" doesn't override then it is not thermostat/timer problem. But you need to be "DIY" for it and careful because PCB has high voltage. So if you think you cannot do it then better to call local gledhill specialist.
By the way, it also may be the temperature sensors but i don't know how to check them, could be by reading temperature on PCB display, not sure

scorp

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Post  Mimatron Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:00 am

Ok thanks again, I will try this over the weekend.

Mimatron

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Post  MK Group Ltd Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:59 pm

Hi,

Have you checked that with the heating on and the thermostat asking for heat that you have 230volts and the CH Pump?

Regards

Gary

MK Group Ltd
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Post  Mimatron Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:30 am

I took the front panel off. Don't know what a PCB is could only fine an ACB, hardwater Appliance Control Board. I can't find anything which tells me what the temp is.
Red pump in middle, Space heating pump (is this central heating?)has a little bit of rust on the paste/cement which was used on it. Can't see any leaks or anything. On the ACB panel there are 4 LED lights in a column, top light was off when I took panel off. Switched to emergency back up, all lights went out. When i switched back, top LED light was out others came on. There is a small panel with red LED writing which says 'ON' to the left of it are 2 red lines.

to MK Group Ltd - I assume we have 230 v but don't know how to check, i am in no way an engineer of any sort! Not sure waht you mean by "and the CH Pump?".

This is so frustrating as it could be something so simple and i may end up paying loads of money for a 5 min job! Done this before, charged a £100 by a 'Gledhill Specialist' who didn't even fix it. He charged me for all the phone calls he made to the Gledhill company, guess I was naive, shouldn't have paid.

Mimatron

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Post  scorp Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:48 am

Here is manual for the system:
http://www.aroundtownflats.com/manuals/Boilers/Gledhill/boilermatemain%205.pdf
Page 35 says how to check temperature and errors.
Page 22: 220V should be between pins 12-13 for pump and 27-28 for thermostat. You need to use multimeter for example to measure voltage(be careful). I would also check between 20-23 to make sure that timer is not faulty.
Page 28 explains LEDs.
If you have "switch" then your diagram is on Page 25 so for 220V pump need to measure on switch board between N-HTGpump

scorp

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Post  Mimatron Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:22 am

ah ha. LED display: Bar 1 - HT is lit, bar 2 - ST is lit, bar 3 - HW is out.

temps read as follows: store_T1 = 75, T1_ON = 74, T1_OFF= 77
PHE_T2=74, 69, 75
DHW_T3= HEr,

So all 3 green LED lights are working but the Bar 3 - HW isn't lit. So does that mean the pump in the IDEAL boiler isn't working and the Gledhill boiler is ok?

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Post  Mimatron Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:29 am

Done the other bits but not going to test electrics, a step too far for me!

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Post  scorp Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:37 am

HW is hot water i think and it should be on when you open hot water tap

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Post  scorp Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:44 am

DHW_T3= HEr means sensor error. I think this is the answer to your problem

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Post  Mimatron Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:49 am

So it means hot water pump has gone in IDEAL boiler? We will call someone out tomorrow. Thanks for all your help and patience.

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Post  scorp Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:03 am

No, boiler is fine I think. Your Store Temperature is 75 means that boiler works fine. I'm actually not sure how HW sensor can stop central heating working. I don't know how error checking works. Did you switch off system and switched on with jumper 5 for selftest as explained on page 35? The error may be left from previous selftest carried by someone who fixed sensor.

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Post  Mimatron Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:56 pm

No I haven't tried the jumper 5 thing, will look at it again. Maybe I read it ut didn't get it, although i don't recall it. Will let you know. Thanks.

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Post  Mimatron Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:04 am

I looked up jumper 5 on internet, i don't have one and can't do anything electical anyway.

Now have error showing on ST as well as HW even though red bar is showing on ST. This just gets more confusing.

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Post  Midland Boilercare Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:53 pm

Hi Mimatron

The answer to your problem is very simple to identify with the information that you have already supplied.
You have advised that out of the four green lights (LEDs) on the Boilermates control board, the bottom three are lit up. This confirms the following to me;
1] the boiler is being told to produce heat (fire up the burner)
2] the boiler pump is being told to work (this pumps the heated water from the boiler to the Boilermate)
3] the central heating boiler is being told to work

If the central heating pump is being told to work by the control board, but your radiators are still cold, then either the central heating pump itself is faulty or there is a problem with the control board in the Boilermate. Either way you will need to call a Gledhill specialist to rectify the situation. Please DO NOT proceed with trying any tests to establish if you have voltages unless you have electrical training as you may well put yourself in danger.

Our company covers the Midlands area, but if you are outside of our area then check the engineers section of this website for a more local specialist.

David HIckey

Midland Boilercare
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Post  Mimatron Thu Nov 10, 2011 1:29 pm

Thank you david, I did call an engineer who was familiar with the GLEDHILL sysyem he put in a new pump and now the water is getting to the radiators and we have a warm house! I would NEVER mess with electrics.

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