Boiler mate issues

[GrantB]

Not sure where to start - Boilermate A OV linked to Glowrom Miron 50 boiler in the garage.

British Gas guy attended the house Friday and has diagnosed faulty Boilermate but seems unable to add any more details.

Very little heat in the radiators as Bolier never stays on very long (30 secs max) without either the Boilermate or bolier giving the signal to stop the burner. As a result the boiler sometimes does not fire and requires resetting.
System works fine on `switch` (so pumps seems ok). The system has had a recent cleaning and flushing and as everything works OK on `switch`.

A bit stumped !

[mike]

Checked the fault codes on the ACB?
Your system etc has been cleaned, how?
Is the boiler pump on the BMA working?
Mike
MGC/H2O
Norfolk

[GrantB]

ok cycled through the diagnostics and got the following

Sensor temp reading 5.1 - 64 5.2 - 64 5.3 - 47 5.4 - 57 5.5 - 41 5.6 - 55 5.7 - 86

Control set point reading 5.1 - 68 5.2 - 77 5.3 - 35 5.4 - 55 5.5 - 60 5.6 - 70

Lock outs C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 Ca Cb CC Cd Ce Cf all FF

Block Outs Co 44 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 Ca Cb CC Cd Ce Cf all FF

I cannot make head or tail of these (not sure what FF means) but hope this helps

The flushing was just a matter of adding a cleaner to the radiator system, leaving for a few days then draining and adding inhibitor on refill.

Whats the BMA - pumps seem to be working to hot water and rads - not so sure about their efficency however - perhaps they have lost some of their power?

Thanks for your quick response btw!

[mike]

F/F means fault free.
So your ACB sounds to be ok. (main PCB)
Just checking that it HAS NOT been power flushed!
BMA equals Boilermate A class.
You need to check the Boiler pump in the BMA.
If it is not working then the boiler will not run for long.
And the BMA will not get hot.
So heating and hot water will be impaired.
Mike
MGC/H2O
Norfolk

[GrantB]

The only one which was not an FF was the 'Block outs' C0 which had a 44 after it instead of a FF

Interesting though - sounds as if pump could indeed be suspect

Is there an easy way to check this?

I guess its the boiler pump i should be checking (the one on the left of the unit)

Only hesitation is that the heat gets round the rads fine when the system is on 'switch' but i guess here there is no link to the boiler?? and ALL hot water is heated by the electric heater on the thermal store??

Great info - just what i need to try and isolate the problem

[mike]

Boiler pump on the unit.
You have 2 pipes from the boiler called flow and return.
It is like a circle.
From the boiler to the unit.
And back again.
You need to check;
Has the pump got a supply when the unit is calling for heat.
Is the pump turning / free running.
Sometimes you have to remove the pump to check the impeller is ok/ not broken. And not fouled in anyway.
Also check that the pump valves are fully on. Although why they should not be fully on, but you never know.
Mike
MGC/H2O
Norwich

[GrantB]

ok - will check this - just two quick questions

I guess a muti meter is a called for to check if power is getting to the pump and placed across the onnector terminals with the connector to the pump disconnected?

Stupid question time - if i remove the pump will i need to drain the system?

[mike]

I don't want to appear rude.
But you can use a meter or test leads to check for a supply.
Even a lamp holder with a bulb in it (the old fashioned way)
Above and below the pump are pump valves.
Which you are supposed to turn off the remove the pump or pump head (still a bit of water)
But next problem, if the pump valves DO NOT LEAK when you turn them it will be a miracle!
Then a drain down will be required with new valves of course.
So you have been warned.
I do really wonder if you should be attempting all the above.
As there are many pitfalls which can/ may arise.
Mike
MGC/H2O
Norwich.
PS;
Please don't ask as I could write a book!

[GrantB]

Not rude at all - i may well not attempt as you note - just want to know as much as i can so i dont waste too much cash trying to fix the problem

I can do the simple tests regarding power to the pump and if i find a problem i will get a professional to back up the findings and change the pump

huge thanks for your help

[mike]

Code 44 is S2 overheat open.
As per the book
Mike

[Sponsored content]