Requesting help with a systemate 3 fault diagnosis

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Requesting help with a systemate 3 fault diagnosis Empty Requesting help with a systemate 3 fault diagnosis

Post  Geths on Fri Oct 18, 2019 5:17 pm

I'd really appreciate a little help with diagnosing a fault my systemate 3 has developed today.

Regardless of the position of the mechanical clock is in or the room thermostat being at zero.  My systemate 3 is continually sending heat to the radiators?


Any help solving this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Geths

Geths

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Post  Geths on Sat Oct 19, 2019 5:22 am

Having spent the night reading previous posts on similar issues and various other sites.   I'm of the thought its the 3-way motorized valve? and it would be a clever move to replace the mixing valve at the same time (prone to scale damage) as it's been compounding the issue somewhat.

I'm not a plumber but have over the years found it nigh on impossible to find a local plumber who has any knowledge of Gledhill stuff. So I often have to fix it myself or at least be able to support my goto plumber in understanding both unit and fault.

Once again any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Post  Mike the Boilerman on Sat Oct 19, 2019 6:51 am

Hi Geths,

This is usually caused by a failure in the PCB in the Systemate. Quite an expensive part to buy new but often second hand PCBs on ebay.

Can also be caused by the motorised diverter valve jamming or failing to fully return to the 'home' position. Check it carefully before buying a new PCB!

Hope that helps,
Mike

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Mike Bryant AKA Mike the Boilerman, Gledhill repair specialist, webmaster of www.gledhill-repairs.co.uk & www.miketheboilerman.com. For information about my Gledhill repair service or to make a booking call me on 07866 766364. (Please don't phone me for advice if you are fixing a Gledhill yourself, ask on here instead - I run this forum partly to cut down on the phone calls!)

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Post  Geths on Sat Oct 19, 2019 10:49 am

Hi Mike,

Firstly thank you for replying. I've said it before but you really are a very kind man. I much appreciate it.

Is there an easy way for me to test/check the valve actuator to confirm it and or the actual mechanical valve is the culprit?

regards

Geths












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Post  Mike the Boilerman on Sat Oct 19, 2019 11:05 am

Geths wrote:Hi Mike,

Firstly thank you for replying.  I've said it before but you really are a very kind man.  I much appreciate it.

Is there an easy way for me to test/check the valve actuator to confirm it and or the actual mechanical valve is the culprit?  

regards

Geths


Yes two ways.

1) Use the manual operating lever on the side to check the valve moves all the way across to full defection manually, and that it returns freely to the home position when released.

2) Make sure it returns to the home position when the heating is OFF, and moves across to full deflection by itself when the heating is turned ON, or to half deflection when the heting and HW are both calling for heat.

Mike











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Post  Geths on Sat Oct 19, 2019 12:18 pm

Hello mike,


1) If I move the bar to the manual position and release it (no heating demand), it returns about halfway between manual and auto, sometimes a tad further but never fully back to auto.

2) If I leave the bar in this middle position and turn the CH on and then a little later turn off the demand, the bar will move alittle further towards auto but not much. If I repeat this test the distance traveled towards auto isn't consistent.

3) If I move the bar to the manual position (with CH on) and release it and turn off the CH, it moves further than the middle point but not all the way back to auto.

If the 'home' position is auto, then it never fully travels to that position.  There feels like little or no resistance between auto and a 3rd of the travel towards manual.

I'm sorry to enquire further but I don't understand what that tells me?

Regards

Geths

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Post  Mike the Boilerman on Sat Oct 19, 2019 1:30 pm

Geths wrote:
1) If I move the bar to the manual position and release it (no heating demand), it returns about halfway between manual and auto, sometimes a tad further but never fully back to auto.


Ok, this illustrates the lever does not freely return all the way back to the home position when released, so your diverter valve is sticking. This IS the problem and it needs freeing or replacing.

Just to confirm, try this again with the electricity to the boiler and Systemate turned OFF. If you get the same result, replace the diverter valve, or dismantle and clean it.

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Mike Bryant AKA Mike the Boilerman, Gledhill repair specialist, webmaster of www.gledhill-repairs.co.uk & www.miketheboilerman.com. For information about my Gledhill repair service or to make a booking call me on 07866 766364. (Please don't phone me for advice if you are fixing a Gledhill yourself, ask on here instead - I run this forum partly to cut down on the phone calls!)

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Post  Geths on Sat Oct 19, 2019 1:56 pm

Hello Mike,

Performed the same test with no power to the boiler or thermal store and the lever only travels halfway.  While a fault is a fault, I'm grateful its not the PCB (Although MM seems the guy to goto with PCB's)

Did you have any thoughts on my idea of swapping out the blender valve and cleaning/replacing the Y filter when changing the 3-way valve etc?  My systemate III has been up and running for 20 years and when I changed the DHW pump (another fault you helped me diagnose) I changed the valve bodies either side of the pump as they were packed with sludge.

It's not lost on me that you've been assisting/guiding me on and off since 2010! (where does the time go?) and consequently, I've learned so much.  I am so grateful mike, I wish you much good karma in life.

regards

Geths


Last edited by Geths on Sat Oct 19, 2019 4:34 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Im dyslexic)

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Post  Geths on Mon Nov 11, 2019 9:06 am

For any interested readers...

So I drained the heat store and removed the 3-way valve, which was a bit of a bugger to remove, due to its age and the original install.  On inspection, it was clearly knackered, it wouldn't move freely even after spinning it with a drill.   Anyway, installed a new 3-way valve + actuator and took the opportunity to change the Y filter (the filter itself was scaled) and changed the brawa mixer valve (another bugger to remove). While the valve wasn't in terrible condition on inspection, it was certainly reaching the end of its lifespan.  The new one has greatly improved hot-water consistency.   Refilled the system and added a new inhibitor then cleared the system of air and hey presto! shes lives once more.

I found all the required parts at Amazon, Sparesweb, Ebay, and Screwfix and saved a considerable amount on not buying directly from Gledhill.

Thanks again Mike for all your help.

Geths

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