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Systemate 2000 leaky pump ball valve

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Systemate 2000 leaky pump ball valve Empty Systemate 2000 leaky pump ball valve

Post  Rf80racer Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:03 am

I have just noticed a leak through the ceiling and on investigation there is water dripping from the top ball valve of the centre pump. It looks like its coming out of the spindle of the ball valve where you turn it with a spanner.

I have two questions please.

From a quick search on the Internet this appears to be a common fault with these valves. Whilst replacing the faulty valve ( I'm assuming it can't be repaired) should I do all of them to prevent future problems, and is there an improved design available?

What's the procedure to drain the system down to enable the valves to be replaced? Is it as straightforward as turning off the cold water mains and draining the unit via the lower drain valve below the rh pump?

Thanks for any advice!

Rf80racer

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Post  mike Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:08 am

Hi with ref to your queries.
I would advise that you get someone to carry out the work.
As you may / could run into all sorts of problems
Mike

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Post  Rf80racer Sat Sep 29, 2012 2:48 pm

Ok thanks, but why is it so difficult? I moved the boiler last year and drained and refilled the system without a problem.

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Post  mike Sat Sep 29, 2012 3:02 pm

Well that was a surprise.
To hear you had moved your boiler.
But then you asked if the pump valve could be repaired.
You will find they are short in length.
Most others are longer.
But if you can cut the pipe work to accommodate a better valve then do so.
I like the Peglar ones from Screwfix. But they are quite long.
If you read the book, draining will be the opposite of when installing it.
So pretend you have installed it and carry on from there.
There are pit falls with all these jobs and experience is the key word.
Common sense too.
Think it all through and no doubt you will be fine.
Mike

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Post  Rf80racer Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:34 am

Understood, thanks.

I already got hold of a new ball valve yesterday and the first thing I noticed was that it was about 10mm longer than the original. Didn't start the job yesterday as I was thinking about how to overcome this, and by fiddling with the ball valve managed to stop it leaking (temporarily, obviously still needs replacing). The screwfix valve you suggest seems like a good alternative as its much longer and may make shortening the pipe easier as I will be well clear of the original olive position.

Anyway the point of the reply is mainly that I now have another problem! Overnight the main RCD tripped twice. On the second occasion it wouldn't reset and I had to isolate the heating trip. I am thinking that my 2 problems must be linked - the leaky valve being over the pump has probably sent water into the pump electrics which is now causing a short.

Just about to investigate further, the pump body is quite corroded. I guess a new pump will be required if it has water in its electrics?

Thanks for the advice.

Rf80racer

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Post  mike Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:49 pm

Afraid so.
Lose a lot of pump in that way.
Water leaking into them.
Mike

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